WEIRD HOUSES AROUND THE WORLD

Boat house , Halifax , Nova Scotia

Castle house , San Juan , Dominican Republic

Chair house , West Creek , New Jersey

Crooked house , Windsor

Cube house , Rotterdam , Holland

Dome house , Pensacola Beach , Florida

Egyptian house , off Delaney , Gurnee

Hoovercraft house , New Mexico

Skinny house , Boston

Upside down house , Japan

Weird house , Erie Avenue , Cincinnati

Great Ocean Road , Victoria , Australia

Hampstead , Montreal

Leelanau County , Michigan

Montara , California

Napels , Florida

North Hampton , Florida

Tokyo , Japan

Toronto , Ontario

Kettle house , Galveston , Texas

Planet house , Pensacola Beach , Florida

Saucer house , Santa Monica Blvd , West Hollywood

Saxophone house , Orinda , California

Ship house , Dalmatia , Croatia

Shoe house , Abel Erasmus Pass , Branddraai Mpumalanga , South-Africa

Shoe house , Bombay , India

Shoe house , Off Old Lincoln Highway , Pennsylvania

Silo house , Rosario , Argentina

Sphere home , Manitowoc , Lake Michigan

Stilt house , Pennsylvania

Spaceship house , Chattanooga , TN

Thin house , London , UK

* Choosing The Right Carpet

What carpet will work best for my needs? What questions should I ask the carpet store before purchasing my carpet? How can I tell if the carpet is a quality carpet versus an over priced carpet? These are the questions that my clients ask me when they are considering purchasing a new carpet for their home. I will attempt to answer these questions and keep you from spending too much money or not enough money to achieve your new carpet needs. The first question you should answer is How long do I want the carpet to last? To simplify the answer to this question we will categorize the expected carpet life into under 5 years.

Many people just want to put carpet into their home for resale purposes and wish to spend the least amount of money as possible. Other people wish to replace just their family room for a few years and then replace the whole house once the upstairs or less used carpets are also ready for replacement. If you want just a few years of use, Olefin carpet may be the best carpet for you. It is simply less expensive. It is also colorfast and will not discolor or fade easily. The down side to Olefin carpet is that it will mat easily and not perk up as much once it is cleaned. It will also absorb oils and not release them easily or some times not at all. As a carpet cleaner, we like Olefin the least since it does not respond to cleaning as well as most other carpets. Now that you decided that Olefin is best for you, How should you pick out your olefin carpet?

One of the biggest mistakes people make with Olefin carpet is getting a carpet yarn that is tall. Olefin is very heavy and if you take a tall heavy fiber and support it with lots and lots of other tall heavy fibers they will mat and tangle and not look very good. Your best bet is to get a very short olefin fiber that will not mat. When you compare the Olefin carpet between stores you want to make sure that you are comparing carpets of equal density. The store should be able to tell you how dense this particular carpet is. Make sure that you are getting the price for a square yard of carpet and not a square foot. Also, make sure that you compare the same thickness of carpet pad and if the carpet installation and carpet stretching is going to be knee kicked or power stretched. You might also want to ask if the installer working for the store is an employee or if they are a sub contractor? Do they guarantee the carpet installation? You might want to check the store and installer on the BBB web site. I would compare three stores for price. Remember to compare the store for the same:

1. Fiber content (are they made of the same stuff? Olefin)

2. The carpets thickness.

3. Are they all using square yards?

4. Cost of the same thickness carpet pad.

5. Cost of installation.

6. Is the installation under guarantee?

7. Are the installers power stretching or Knee kicking?

8. How much do they charge for old carpet tear out?

9. How much do they charge for old carpet removal?

If you have any other questions regarding choosing the best cheap carpet or finding a longer lasting carpet please look for the article you need at www.Colorado-Carpet-Masters.com

* Log Home Lighting

Lighting is as necessary to your home as your foundation, yet lighting your home can be one of the most difficult chores to accomplish. Whether you are building a new home or remodeling, a lighting plan is a necessity in any home design process. The task of lighting a home can be overwhelming with todays styles and technology. Yet there is some light on the horizon.

Today you can access many forums to help you with your lighting needs. Between the Internet and trained lighting designers who may be working independently or with lighting design showrooms, the homeowner has more people to talk to then ever before. Exploring both avenues can be helpful to consumers who want to educate themselves about lighting and the different styles and fixtures for any log home.

Ambient Lighting - rustic, log, lighting, antler, tin, chandeliers, antlers, log homes, punched tin, sconces, chandeliers, log furniture, exterior lighting, rustic light fixturesAn initial plan for lighting your home should be based upon consideration of both function and fashion within your own lighting needs. Questions such as "How much natural light will each area receive?" and "What is this space going to be used for?" should be first and foremost in any homeowners mind. Another consideration for anyone planning their home lighting is "What furniture and decorative elements will be present in any given room?" You should keep in mind that each house is different and every room may need careful thought when you choose a lighting scheme.

Most lighting designs use a combination of three types of lighting: General, Task and Accent lighting. Any home that incorporates these three types can create a beautiful and comfortable lighting style. Each of these types of lighting can serve a specific need while adding a decorative look to your home.

General Lighting, is also known as ambient lighting. This type of lighting allows a person to move around the room. In any room where there are heavy tasks preformed, general lighting will normally be brighter to allow for better working within that room. For a room like a living room or a hallway, general lighting may be more subdued. Chandeliers and wall sconces can be placed in key areas and be used to fulfill this lighting need.

Task Lighting - country tinware, lights, country style, lanterns, unique, log lights, log cabins, wood switchplates, southwestern, western, country fixtures, switchplatesTask Lighting is a directed light that can focus on a work preparation area such as a kitchen or bathroom counter. This type of lighting normally features a form of down light or in other words; a fixture that focuses and directs a light source down to the task area. Any sort of down or directional lighting can be a wonderful type of task lighting.

Accent Lighting - hand crafted, lamps, antler lighting, chandelier, accessories, tin lights, custom lights, task lighting, accent, log home, log constructionAccent Lighting is used to highlight a specific item or decorative feature in your home. This type of lighting is often found accenting artwork or other items that may be hanging or mounted to your wall surface.

When lighting a log home there are often two major issues that typically surface.

1.] Log home structures do not provide the same flexibility for a concealed light fixture as a conventional home with studs and drywall.

2.] The irregular wall surfaces of a log home may make wall mounting more difficult.

To battle the first situation you may choose to use more ceiling mounted fixtures or chandeliers with a variety of lamps. To meet with the challenge of wall mounting you can have a log shaved or hollowed out to accommodate a wall sconce or mounted light fixture. Custom made lighting may be just the answer for your homes specific needs and can be an excellent way to over come such issues when lighting your log home.

Log homes do have the advantage of providing interesting textures and great architectural features that will highlight your overall décor. It is very important to find a style of lighting that shall accent your aesthetic preferences and will fit with the more rustic, cozy and natural feel of a log home. Natural looking surfaces such as wrought iron or pierced tin, antlers, and even natural logs are a popular choice in lighting styles for todays log home owners.

Chandelier LightingWhatever combination of lighting you may choose for your home, remember that lighting fixtures and their placement within a room will determine their effectiveness. Sconces can be used to light your way up a winding staircase or down a hallway. Chandeliers may provide that much needed center piece to your living room or great room, while table lamps and floor lamps can serve as task lighting near your favorite reading chair or love seat. Hanging and pendant lights can add their own unique touch, while lighting over your kitchen sink or pool table and adding a new dimension to your décor.

With careful thought and planning, lighting your log home may be one of the most rewarding tasks in any building or remodeling job. When it is all said and done, your lighting choices can not only keep you out of the dark, but may add that perfect touch to your dream home. There is truly NO better feeling then when someone visits your home for the first time and comments "That fixture is perfect for this room! Where did you ever find it?"

Scott and Ani Walker have been in the rustic lighting business since 1998Scott & Ani Walker have been in the rustic lighting business since 1998. After moving to northwest Montana and purchasing a log home, Scott Walker hand crafted his own rustic log lighting. When he realized there was a market for such a product he began One Guy Light Co. Starting out with Scott’s hand crafted log light fixtures, their business grew to the point that they later added antler light fixtures and punched tin lighting. While Scott works in his shop located at their home in northwest Montana, Ani designs and manages their web site. Their complete line of hand crafted rustic and country style lighting can be found at their web site located at http://www.rusticloglighting.com

Home Security Tips

Home security systems are only as strong as their weakest link, and if you set up equipment that's too complicated for household members to use, they are likely to ignore the equipment or work around it. Remember that the people in your home are part of any security arrangements you make, so you have to be realistic about how much hassle they are willing to accept in the name of security.

1. Be sure your home appears occupied.

Most thieves are opportunistic. They come into a neighborhood and look for houses that seem undefended and unoccupied. An important part of home security is making your home look occupied at all times

One big clue that you are out of town is if your mail or newspapers are piling up. Never allow newspapers to accumulate in the front yard.

Interior lights are also important in making a home look occupied. Not only should some lights be on, but the array of lights should change just as it would if the home were occupied. The easiest way to do this is with timers.

Another very simple way to make a house appear occupied is to leave on a TV or radio with the volume turned up loud enough to be heard by someone approaching the doors or windows.

Leaving a car in the garage or driveway can also be a deterrent. If you are going on a trip and not leaving a car at home, you might want to make arrangements with the next door neighbor to park one of their cars in your driveway while you are away.

2. Create perimeter defenses.

Another important home security measure involves making it difficult to get near the home. This is most commonly accomplished by a high wall or fence.

In many parts of the world, this is the primary home security tactic, but it does suffer from some shortcomings. Generally, it is easier to sneak undetected over or under a wall or fence than it is to force entry into a home.

Yet perimeter defenses often give occupants of the home a false sense of security that may lead them to get sloppy about locking doors and windows. For this reason, perimeter defenses are most effective when they are either very difficult to penetrate or are augmented by cameras and/or motion detectors.

3. Be sure all entrances are well lit.

For most homes, perimeter defenses like walls and fences are of little use. Most people assume that the next line of defense is doors and windows, but there is something that comes first. It's based on the simple fact that thieves want to do their work where no one can see them. This means you want to make sure the outside of your home is well lit - especially at any potential points of entry. An effective solution is motion detector lights. These inexpensive devices can be set up to turn on whenever something moves near it.

4. Install deadbolts and peepholes on doors.

Most home security measures are concentrated on doors. With doors, the two main issues are structural integrity and locks.

Recommended for exterior doors, deadbolt locks are substantial locks that lock the door into the frame. Deadbolts come in keyed versions, which always require a key, and levered versions that only require a key to open from the outside. If no glass is nearby, the lever version is best as it is more likely to get used.

There are many facets to your ensuring your personal home security.

Sliding glass doors present a special challenge. Most are vulnerable to breakage. The simplest security enhancement is to place a metal bar or broom handle in the inside floor track. Some sliding doors can simply be lifted out of their tracks. There are screws at the top and bottom of the inside of the door that control how it sits in the track. Adjust these so that the door cannot be lifted so high that the bottom comes free from the track.

Every front door should be equipped with a peephole. This is a very inexpensive, easy to install device that allows you to check out a visitor before you open the door. For the same reason, an intercom can allow you to communicate with a caller before deciding whether to open the door or deactivate an alarm.

5. Secure your home's windows.

While your home may only have two or three doors, it may have a dozen or more windows. Burglars know that if you systematically check all the windows in a house, there is a good chance that at least one will remain unlocked.

Most standard window locks are very simple to jimmy or force. Heavier locks will improve your home security quite a bit. Another simple, inexpensive tactic that is effective for double hung windows (those with two sliding panels that go up and down or side to side) is window pins. There are specially made pins, or large nails can easily be used.

6. Remember your home's other points of access.

Exterior doors and windows are not the only access points to most homes. Many thefts take place through garages. Besides having valuable items stolen from the garage, the door that goes from the garage to the house is often unsecured or not substantial enough to stop a burglar.

Check also to see if skylights, crawl spaces, attic vents, and other openings may provide burglars with unrestricted access to your home.

7. Consider installing an alarm system.

Alarm systems offer little in the way of physical obstacles to thieves. Instead they offer an important psychological one.

In a neighborhood with an efficient police force, the alarm substantially increases the odds that the thief will get caught. Even in areas where police response times are slow, the noise and attention of an alarm may well dissuade the burglar from finishing his mission.

The cost of alarm systems varies widely. A burglar easily can disable some of the simpler, less expensive detection devices. The more complex and unfamiliar the array of devices, the more likely the burglar is to trigger the alarm or give up trying to disable it.

Response times to alarms are driven by several factors. First is the effectiveness of the monitoring service you're using. When considering a monitoring service, get the names of people who have had the opportunity to observe response times in the past.

The second factor is the protocol you request that the monitoring service use. Who do you have them call in what order? In some cases, you might do better to alert a helpful neighbor than to alert an unresponsive police force.

The third factor is the emergency services in your area. Most work well and a few don't. While you have no direct control over the emergency services, you may be able to draw attention to the problem and seek a solution through the political process.

8. Keep a record of your valuables.

Most area police departments encourage homeowners to etch their social security number on the metal surfaces of valuables that are prone to theft. When police come across marked stolen merchandise, they can easily find the true owner and return it. Photographs of especially valuable items like artwork and antiques can help police recover goods

Home Office Tips

These days, more and more people are taking the bold step of doing at least part of their job at home. A 30-second commute has a lot of appeal, but increasingly, people are opting to work at home in order to create a more humane schedule that allows for more flexibility to attend to family joys and responsibilities.

But as anyone who has been down this road can tell you, working at home has its down sides as well. The kids, the refrigerator, the bed, the newspaper and other accomplices all conspire to distract you from your work.

In addition, no matter how adorable your daughter might be, she may not always be the best person to handle calls from your boss or a client. It can also be pretty tough to impress a client when he has to walk by the morning dishes to get to your home office. Fortunately, most of these problems can be addressed by designing your home office space carefully. Here are some key issues to focus on:

Separate Your Home Office from Your Living Space

It is very important to separate your work area from your living area. Attics, basements and rooms over detached garages are ideal places to locate a home office.

If your office must be in the main part of the house, try to locate the workspace where it will be least impacted by the domestic distractions. For example, placing it at the end of a long hall is good, but carving out a niche in the kitchen usually doesn't work. Choose a location that makes it easy to control the flow of distracting children, noise and even scents.

If your workspace has to be near the house's hub, consider taking steps to soundproof the area.

While it is important to protect your workspace from distractions, it is also important to separate your family, rest and play spaces from work. For example, if you have a desk set up in a corner of your bedroom, your work may follow you to bed and haunt you all night long.

Design the Right Home Office Environment for You

This is the part of home office design that everyone likes. You have a real chance to make a workspace that supports the way you think, feel and work. For one person, that might mean a plush easy chair in the middle of a circle of tables. For another, it might mean a simple desk overlooking a peaceful garden.

For once you have nearly complete freedom in setting up your workspace. Warning: Resist the temptation to make it too peaceful or comfortable or you may find yourself doing more napping than working!

Remember to Consider the Right Working Environment for Visitors

If there is any chance that you will have visits from colleagues, your boss, vendors, subordinates, partners, clients or others, you must pay special attention to the kind of statement your work environment makes.

Whenever possible, have a separate outside entrance so that visitors don't have to traipse through private family spaces to get to your office. It is very difficult to project a sense of professionalism when you have to pick up toys or laundry en route to your meeting.

In most traditional office environments, you have the use of a conference room for meetings. At home, you don't have that luxury, so you have to make alternative arrangements. If your work area stays neat and has room for another table, you can create a mini-conference area right in your home office. But if your office is normally untidy, you may want to set up another room as your public room. You can decorate it to the nines and put plaques and credentials on the wall, and your visitors will never know how your real office looks.

Sooner or later, visitors will need to use a restroom. Ideally, the office area should have its own bathroom that is off limits to family members. This makes it easy to keep it especially clean and free of the clutter that inhabits the typical domestic bathroom.

If you can't swing a separate bathroom, consider designating one of the family bathrooms for office use. You might want to add additional storage in the bathroom to minimize clutter and make it easier to keep clean.

Install Communications and Power Infrastructure

It usually makes sense to have at least one separate phone line exclusively for the home office. If you use the Internet, faxes or e-mail extensively, additional lines are a good idea.

A separate business line allows you to use a professional voicemail or answering machine message. It also gives you the option of using call-forwarding if you occasionally work from another location.

A designated business line also makes it easier to keep youngsters from intercepting your important business calls. And, at the end of the day, you can leave the business line to the answering machine or voicemail without missing calls from friends and family.

Another infrastructure issue is electrical power. Copiers, laser printers and computers use a lot of juice. Check with an electrician about adding a couple of circuits so that you don't have to worry about tripping the circuit-breaker every time you make a photocopy.

Don't Forget the Home Office Ground Rules!

No matter how well designed your workspace is, you will have to establish basic ground rules for you, your family and even visitors. In general, the ground rules should support the above issues.

For example, if you find yourself making continual raids on the refrigerator, you may need to establish a rule for yourself that limits trips to the kitchen to meal times. A separate business phone line isn't much use if family members routinely turn to it when the main family line is tied up. And your "conference room" won't serve its purpose if it becomes a hide-away for empty boxes, half-finished puzzles and spare camping equipment.

Done correctly, a home office can support a healthy, family-oriented lifestyle that leaves you with more time and money to enjoy a fuller lifestyle

Indoor Fountains

In considering your purchase of an indoor fountain, the location is paramount. A water fountain used in the middle of the room or in an open space between rooms will be far more appealing if the water cascades down both sides.

A large, free standing water fountain will need a space worthy of the size of the unit selected. Any unit may be placed against an end wall and the use of an appropriate table can increase the height and the distinctive look of an indoor fountain unit that appears to be too small initially for the space selected.

A striking indoor fountain to consider is a freestanding indoor floor fountain that allows a sheet of water to spill down a copper or slate wall, creating the tranquil sounds of falling water as it shimmers down the wall into the channel below. A copper frame may be use to deliver the water that then runs down the sheet of slate of copper to a base filled with river rocks.

These indoor fountains can be purchased so as to be viewed from either side. Many of these water fountains come with a specialized treatment, covering the copper with a protective powder coat finish to protect the material from turning green.

The more distinctive indoor fountains are equipped with a wall design than can be visually stimulating. A popular form is a copper unit with a wavy tile the keeps the water moving in and out as it flows over the uniquely shaped curved structure. A free standing water fountain can be especially captivating if the unit is the five to five and a half foot height. Such an indoor fountain is more apt to draw a persons eye if the unit rises to the normal visual height of the observer.

An indoor fountain makes for an exceptional centerpiece for your home décor. Having flowing water inside your home is a sign of status, signifying that you are in control of your surroundings. If all the world is a jungle, then an indoor fountain is your own private retreat. Whether you decide on a countertop placement or a grandiose indoor wall fountain, the sight and sound of trickling water will calm and relax you.

Child Safety in the Bathroom

Medicines that look like candy, slippery tubs and floors, hot water—these are some of the hazards that bathrooms present to curious young children. Here are steps you can take to make your home's bathrooms as safe as possible.

As with the kitchen, first store away and lock up all toxic substances and install a safety lock on the medicine cabinet if it does not have one.

General safety

Keep radios, hair dryers, curling irons, and other electrical appliances out of the bathroom. If there are some you consider essential to your comfort, install GFCIs, unplug the appliances when not in use, and allow them to cool off well out of your child's reach.

And, keep all electrical appliances a safe distance from the bathtub and sink. Never use extension cords or a portable heater in the bathroom.

So your toddler can't explore the toilet bowl, buy a simple self-gripping strap to keep the lid down. For the first stage of toilet training, use a "potty chair" that sits on the floor. Then, when your child is ready, move to a step-up training seat that lets him or her use the adult toilet safely. Or you can get a two-stage toilet trainer that does both. Choose a sturdy step-up trainer with a nonslip step and handles to assure that your child can get up and down safely.

Look at the location of the towel bars from a toddler's vantage point. Could they be used as handrails by a climbing child? Could they poke a small face? If so, change them or move them.

Hide the wastebasket inside a safety-latched cabinet. You can purchase lid-locking diaper pails, a design so practical that you may wish to use a second one as a wastebasket. Even with this precaution, wrap up disposable razors and razor blades and place them in outdoor trash cans immediately after use.

Check the laundry chute or hamper to be sure that baby can't get trapped in it or fall through it.

Certain kinds of tile and linoleum bathroom floors can be very slippery whether they're wet or dry. If yours presents this hazard, lay down a rubber-backed bath mat.

Bathtub safety

Tragically, every year there are incidents of children drowning in the bathtub, so this is an area requiring the strictest vigilance. Never leave your child during a bath—not even for an instant. If you must answer the door or telephone, wrap your baby in a towel and take him or her with you. Drownings can occur in just one or two inches of water and in only a matter of seconds.

Burns from scalding water are a common, yet highly preventable, accident. Reduce the risk of a severe tap-water burn by taking one simple step: Adjust the thermostat on your water heater so that your tap water is no more than 120 degrees F. (This is hot enough for washing dishes and laundry.)

About an hour after turning down the water heater's thermostat, measure the tap water temperature by placing a cooking thermometer in a glass, running hot water over it for a couple of minutes, and then reading the temperature. You may need to adjust the thermostat dial slightly and test again. When the temperature is right, mark the new, safe level on the thermostat so you will be able to tell if the thermostat has been turned up accidentally.

You can also double-check the water's temperature with a bathtub thermometer, available at most children's stores. But you don't really need one; just feel the water with your elbow (not your hand, which is less sensitive). Fill a baby's bath with cool water first and then add warm water. Finish with a little cold water to cool off the spout. Check that the water is comfortably warm, about 90 degrees F.

For bathing a baby, use a steady, stable, baby-sized tub either inside the main tub or set on a wide, sturdy counter. Or, while your baby is still small enough, you might prefer using the kitchen sink. For nestling baby comfortably on a hard tub or sink, purchase a special baby-sized sponge mat, and always use one hand to support the baby.

After your child outgrows the infant tub, provide a rubberized mat, bathtub friction decals, or nonslip tape in the main bathtub to prevent slipping. Or, for kids from about 6 months to 2 1/2 years old, a special suction-cupped baby support is available at children's stores. Here, you can also find protectors to cover the tub spout to minimize head bumps and burns.

Sunken and extra deep bathtubs present more than the usual hazard. The closer the tub's rim to the floor, the more easily a child can climb it and tumble in. If your bathroom has a low-rimmed tub, keep the bathroom door closed at all times.

Be cautious about bathing a child in a spa-type bathtub. Children under 3 often can't support themselves in the swirling water. If you have this type of tub, don't run the pump during your young child's bath.

Don't bathe your baby in the shower, because the water can unexpectedly become scalding hot. And if your shower or tub has a glass door, it must be safety glass to guard against injury on the day your child decides to pound it with something heavy

Unclogging Drains

How to Clear a Bathroom Sink Drain

Here are the most commonly recommended methods for unclogging a clogged drain:

Plunger. Be sure the plunger's suction cup is large enough to cover the drain opening or your work will be an exercise in futility.

1) Fill the clogged basin with enough water to cover the plunger cup.
2) Coat the rim of the cup with petroleum jelly to seal the drain tightly.
3) Use wet rags to block any outlets—a sink overflow or second sink—and create a vacuum.
4) Use 15 to 20 strong strokes once you have a tight seal.
5) Try several times before turning to other remedies.

Chemicals. Don't use chemicals if the drain is completely clogged. These chemical will burn you skin; if they sit in a stagnant drain, you'll have to find a way to remove both the chemicals and the blockage. Don't use routinely because these cleaners can damage metal pipes.
1) Make sure the room is well ventilated.
2) Wear rubber gloves and eye protectors.
3) Read labels, and use the right kind of cleaner—an alkali to cut grease and an acid to dissolve hair, soap, and other gook.
4) Never mix chemicals, and do not use chemicals in combination with a plunger.
5) Don't look down the drain—chemicals give off toxic fumes and can boil up suddenly.

Drain auger. Remove any filters or stops and guide the drain auger ("snake") through the drain opening.
1) Work the drain auger patiently around bends in the piping as you feed it through.�
2) When you've hooked the blockage, pull the drain auger back a little to free it, and then continue to push it through (or pull the clog out).
3) If feeding the drain auger through the drain doesn't work, try feeding it through a system cleanout.

Use a drain auger to snake a drain. For access, first remove the stopper, work the snake down the drain, and turn the handle to bore through the clog and push it through the pipe or pull it out.

For a deep clog, first remove the sink trap. To do this, unscrew the couplings (catch water in a bucket placed beneath the trap). Work a drain auger through the drain pipe to free or extract the clog.

Natural Cooling

Keep Your House Cool Without Air Conditioning

Fundamentally, the idea behind cooling your house without the aid of air conditioning is to minimize sources of heat and remove built-up heat from inside. Here are some helpful steps:

1) Cut back the transfer of heat through the roof and walls. If the attic isn't already insulated or is under-insulated, insulate your attic NOW. This will give you the greatest change in comfort for the least amount of expense. Before you buy, see the Home Insulation buying guide. Weatherize your home to reduce the loss of conditioned air. Employ caulk and weather stripping to cut back on the transfer of air.

2) Install a foil radiant barrier in the attic. Staple it to the underside of the roof rafters, allowing an air space between the foil and the roof sheathing. Place staples about 3 inches apart. Position seams between sheets of foil centered on the rafters and seal the seams with a bead of caulking compound.

3) Install inexpensive heat-reflecting film on windows that face the sun. This will keep your house cooler and reduce glare and ultraviolet rays that damage furniture and floors. For hot climates, sun-control types are most effective, but be aware that they will reduce the amount of light that comes in through the windows. In climates where cold seasons are also a problem, choose a combination film (but do not apply it to south-facing windows if you want rooms to benefit from the sun's warmth during the winter).

4) Reduce heat gain by pulling drapes or shades, and use shelters to prevent direct sunlight from streaming in through windows on the south and west-facing sides of the house. Overhangs, patio overheads, latticework, awnings--all of these work well.

5) Plant now to provide shade in the future. Trees, large bushes, and vines can provide shade and cooling evaporation--choose deciduous varieties if you want to allow the sunlight to warm the house during the winter. Pay attention to the growth characteristics of any landscaping that you plant be sure it will be appropriate for the need and will not block breezes.

6) Closely monitor the temperature both inside and out with an indoor/outdoor thermometer. When it is cooler outside, open up windows and doors to ventilate. (Be sure your windows and doors have adequate screens to prevent an influx of bugs.) And arrange furniture and drapes so they don't restrict airflow. If you have operable skylights or transom windows high on walls, open them to let out super-heated air and create convection currents.

7) Use portable fans or ceiling fans and the "Fan Only" setting on your heating system's thermostat to keep the air moving. By doing so, you will feel comfortable in a room that is 2 or 3 degrees warmer than a still room. If your home has a whole-house fan, turn it on to extract warm air.

8) Humidity makes room air feel warmer, so reduce indoor humidity. Minimize mid-day washing and drying of clothes, showering, and cooking. When you must do these things, turn on ventilating fans to help extract warm, moist air, but be sure to turn them off when you're finished so that they don't extract cooled air from the house. See our free Dehumidifiers buying guide.

9) Unless you absolutely need them, turn off incandescent lights and heat-generating appliances. When it's time to cook, opt for the barbecue instead of the range.

Installing Kitchen Cabinets

How to Install Kitchen Cabinets

Installing new cabinets doesn't necessary require hiring a professional--but it does take a fair amount of do-it-yourself skills and basic tools. Installing them level, plumb, and flush with each other is critical to ensuring that they work properly and look great. The first wall and base cabinets are key--if you get them installed level from back to front and side to side, they other cabinets should follow suit.

It's easiest to start with the wall-mounted cabinets so the base cabinets won't obstruct your work.

1. Use a level and a pencil to draw a perfectly parallel line across the wall about 3 inches up from the floor. Measure down from this line to the floor to find the floor's high point (if it has one), and mark a line at that point. From there, measure up 34 1/2 inches and draw a level line across the wall to designate the top of the base cabinets.

2. From the 34 1/2-inch line, measure up another 19 1/2 inches and mark a level line across the wall to indicate the bottom of the wall cabinets. Lightly mark the cabinets' dimensions and placement on the wall to double-check your layout.

3. Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs, and then, with a pencil, mark their locations above and at least 6 inches below the mark you've made for the bottom of the wall cabinets. Draw straight vertical lines between the top and bottom marks to indicate the center of the studs.

4. Screw a temporary 1-by-3 support rail to the wall, aligning the top edge of the rail with the line for the bottom edge of the wall cabinets. Attach it by driving three or four 2-inch screws through the rail into the wall studs.

5. Install the corner wall cabinet first, with a helper. Drill pilot holes through the sturdy cabinet back or its support rail and into the wall studs. Screw the cabinet to the wall using two screws that are long enough to penetrate the studs by at least 1 1/2 inches, and then check the top for level and the front edge for plumb. To correct the position, back off the screws, tap shims behind the cabinet at stud locations, and then drive the screws home and add several more into each stud for secure attachment.

6. Install the adjacent cabinets. As you install each one, secure it to its neighbor with a clamp and check it for plumb. On face-frame cabinets, it's easiest to drill two 1/8-inch pilot holes through the sides of the face frame and use screws. With frameless cabinets, drill bolt holes through shelf-peg holes, and then bolt the two together. Be sure not to fasten through shelf-peg holes that you will need for shelves.

7. After all the wall cabinets are in place, install the corner or end base cabinet. If necessary, use shims to level it and raise it up to the high point of the floor, so its upper edge aligns with the line on the wall. Be sure it is level from front to back and from side to side, and then screw it to the wall studs.

8. To turn a corner with base cabinets, push the adjoining cabinet in place and clamp the two units together. Add a filler strip if needed to allow doors and drawers clearance. If necessary, tap shims under the cabinet and behind it to adjust for plumb and level.

9. Drive screws through the cabinet back (and shims) into the wall studs. Trim any excess material from the shims with a sharp chisel or knife. Continue to add adjoining cabinets in this manner, joining them as you did the wall cabinets in step 6.

Setting Up Water Gardens

Water Gardening is the latest fad catching up in the area of gardening. It can take up the form of a waterfall, fountain, or a pond. Combining it with lighting effects, plants, fish or adding rock boulders could create mesmerizing effects. It is not at all necessary that you set up a water garden in a natural environment such as a pond. It can be very aesthetically set up in any vessel or a plastic tub

that can hold water.

You should be very careful in choosing the spot for your water garden. It should preferably be in the open area under the direct sunshine. This is the very basic requirement because both the fish and the plants need lots of sunlight. It will also prevent dead leaves from falling in the water

It is very important to decide on the area and size you want for your garden. It will ultimately depend on the budget you have allocated for it. In case you go ahead without considering the budget aspects, the costs could go out of hand, and it could get too expensive for you to handle. The size of the garden too should be in proportion to the overall area you have for this purpose.

For the proper growth of aquatic plants, and for their roots to spread properly, they should cover only half of the total water surface. They can be of any type, free floating, marginally submerged or fully submerged. Every plant has its own characteristic. Some are known for their sweet aroma. While there are others which give off more oxygen to keep the water body healthy. Then there are some which are simply beautiful to look at. Apart from being nice looking creatures, the fish in the pond also keep a control on larvae, insects and other parasites.

In ponds or water gardens one of the biggest headaches is to keep it clear of algae. Algae is usually formed if there is an excess of nutrients in water. It can also form if you over fertilize the plants or feed your fish too often. If you keep these points in mind the algae problem in your water garden will be kept in control to minimum.

Irrespective of their size, the water gardens need constant maintenance all year around. The algae problem can be overcome by cutting down on feeding the fish, and reducing the addition of fertilizers.

You can also install filters, or replace the water in the water body occasionally. The use of copper compounds such as copper sulphate is quite effective in controlling the algae growth. But do not use it in excess. It could be fatal for your plants and fish.

Water gardening does not involve any other extra efforts as compared to the normal gardening. Even if you have never grown a flower in your lifetime, you could still try out water gardening for its simplicity to set up and maintain.

Bathroom Furniture

Your vanity is the centrepiece of your bathroom. It's where people stop when they first enter and leave the room-whether it's to fix makeup, wash hands, or check their appearance. Replacing your vanity can give your bathroom a fresh look without the cost and commitment of a complete redesign.

"Bathroom vanity" generally refers to the mirror and lighting over the sink; the sink and countertop; and the cabinetry beneath. Many vanities incorporate medicine cabinets behind mirrors; others have freestanding pedestal sinks without cabinets beneath. When buying a new bathroom vanity, here are a few things to keep in mind.

1)Style that fits your bathroom. Bathroom vanities come in many styles-from ornate antique pieces involving richly carved cabinets and gilt mirrors to sleek, modern styles with glass sinks and steel fixtures

But the vanity you choose must fit the décor of the rest of your bathroom, or it won't look quite right. You may fall in love with that richly carved Louis XVII cabinetry and marble countertop, but if the rest of your bathroom is functional tile, it won't improve the look of your room. Pick a vanity that will look good in your bathroom-or you'll need to make significant changes to make a new style fit.

2)A size that fits the room. The bathroom vanity you choose shouldn't overwhelm the bathroom-a large, ornate antique vanity set with a thick, framed mirror would definitely look out of place in a compact water closet. However, it will look equally out of place if it's too small; a sleek glass sink on a pedestal might look a bit diminutive in a vast master bedroom as well. When looking for a vanity, choose one that fits the space you have-not the space you wish you had.

3)A realistic amount of storage. If you don't have a lot of storage space elsewhere in your Bathrooms, you'll probably need that space beneath the sink. Pedestal sinks can be stunning, but they can also cut down on the space you have to keep bathroom essentials such as toilet paper and cleaning supplies. Medicine cabinets are also essential for toothbrushes, toothpastes, medications, and grooming supplies-so unless you have room for a cabinet elsewhere in your bathroom, choose a vanity that makes efficient use of space.

4)Lighting that works. Many bathroom vanities come with light fixtures over the mirrors The lighting by your vanity is important-it needs to be both bright and flattering. Frosted glass can soften bright light and give more flattering illumination. Overhead lights cast harsh shadows; sconces on either side of the mirror will make the lighting more even.

5)The right countertop. The countertop can be made of marble, stone, laminate, tile, or a wide variety of other materials. Look for a surface that's smooth, durable, stain-resistant, and easy to clean. Whatever material you choose, your countertop should be all one piece, free of seams and cracks that can collect dirt. In addition, look for a countertop with a backsplash so that your walls stay clean and dry.

6)The right height for your home. The bathroom vanity you choose should be high enough so that the adults in your house can wash their hands comfortably, without stooping. If you have children in the home, you may want to consider a vanity that's slightly lower-but very young children will often need a step-stool to reach the sink anyway.

7)An appropriate basin. When choosing a basin, it's important to match the style of your bathroom. But it's just as important to consider the type of use your sink will get. Glass and other premium materials often require more work to keep clean than more functional materials such as enamelled cast iron or vitreous china. If you're putting the sink in a seldom-used guest bathroom you may have more leeway than you would for a heavily used bathroom.

8)Practicality or drama? Glass Basins are gorgeous-and they always make a dramatic statement. But spots and watermarks are obvious, and they have to be cleaned often in order to look their best. High-quality wood may need to be polished, as will some fixtures such as brass and bronze. A framed mirror might be beautiful, but if it doesn't have a medicine cabinet behind it, it might not be the best choice for your bathroom. When choosing a bathroom vanity, make sure that it's functional as well as beautiful.

Your vanity makes a big impact on the look of your bathroom. If you want to give your bathroom a new look without redesigning the entire room, a new vanity can do the job without breaking the budget. Take your time in choosing a vanity, and you're sure to find one that will breathe new life into your Bathrooms.

Natural Cleaning Products

Use Natural Cleaning Products to reduce the Toxic Risk around your home

Maybe you live in a nice house smelling of alpine meadows with a sparkling bathroom, lovely clean and polished surfaces.

What if someone were to come into your lovely shining home and mix up a cocktail of unknown chemicals for you and your family to distribute around the house. Would you allow it? Of course not. You wouldn't want potentially poisonous chemicals around your house to pose a risk of contamination to the air you breath or to what your family eat and drink.

Disturbingly however, they may already be there.

Brought into your home as unseen and unlabelled additives in many of the cleaning products that are commonly available to keep your house sparkling clean.

You may think that the ingredients in household products are safe having been tested by the authorities and cleared for use because they are known to pose no threat. Sadly, nothing could be further from the truth.

In reality many hazardous chemicals are added to consumer goods. Some of these are known to be hazardous, but current legislation allows for their continued use. This is because the regulations work on 'safe limits' of exposure for individual products. The weaknesses of this approach are that they do not add up accumulated doses from multiple sources of exposure, and neither do they take into account the effect on children and unborn infants, the dosages allowed being based on adult tolerance levels.

A study by the European Environment Agency carried out in 1998 noted that ''widespread exposures to low levels of chemicals may be causing harm, possibly irreversibly, particularly to sensitive groups such as children and pregnant women..''

Consider some of these common types of household cleaning product and what threat they may carry.

Air Fresheners
Many of these products contain formaldehyde and phenol. The former is a known carcinogen and the later can cause skin irritation.

Antibacterial Cleaners
May contain triclosan, which has been connected to liver damage and is readily absorbed through the skin

Carpet and upholstery shampoo
Many contain perchlorethane, which is a carcinogen which damages the liver, kidneys and central nervous system. Ammonium hydroxide may also be present which is a corrosive compound, extremely irritating to the eyes, skin and respiratory system.

Dishwasher detergents
Studies have shown these to be the foremost cause of home poisoning incidents. Most products contain the dry form of chlorine. Scientists and engineers do not handle chlorine without protective clothing. It is extremely dangerous and can very easily be lethal. Indeed, it was the first agent to be used in World War One as a chemical warfare agent.

Dishwashing liquids are labelled 'harmful if swallowed' yet it is used to wash your dishes. Can we be certain that no residues are left on your crockery to be picked up by your food?

Furniture polish
Commonly contain nitrobenzene, which is highly toxic and easily absorbed through the skin. Petroleum distillates may also be present, which are highly flammable and have been linked to skin and lung cancer.

Laundry products.
These present a veritable cocktail of chemicals, including ammonia, phosphourous, naphthalene and phenol along with numerous others. They can all cause irritation to the skin, allergies and sinus problems. Any residue left in your clothes can be absorbed into your body through the skin.

Oven cleaner
These are the most powerful toxic products that you can introduce into your home. They contain ammonia and other chemicals which can irritate the skin, and produce fumes which can attack the respiratory system. Any residue left in your oven may be intensified when you next use it.

Toilet cleaner
These usually contain hydrochloric acid which is highly corrosive, the eyes and skin being particularly vulnerable to attack, and known to be harmful to the liver and kidneys. If mixed with other chemical products, chlorine can be produced which can be fatal in high concentrations.

The above is a brief overview of the possible risks, and it must be stressed that the effects noted for the individual chemicals are for high levels of exposure. However, the point being made by many agencies such as Greenpeace is that the level of exposure in the home is unknown and unmonitored.

What can you do as a householder to minimise the risk to yourself and your family? Well, if you are able, you may want to try talking to your grandmother, as past generations have had to undertake most modern cleaning tasks without the intervention of the chemical industry. For instance, she may have used common salt and baking soda to clean the oven and not risk poisoning anyone.

The easiest way to avoid the risk is to avoid the products. Governments are not going to outlaw the chemicals, and the manufacturers are not going to replace them unless they are forced to do so, either by regulation or by consumer pressure.

There are a growing number of manufacturers who are producing safe products based on natural ingredients that do not present the same threats as the more established and heavily promoted products.

Do you have hardwood floors?

Do you have hardwood floors? If so, make sure extra care is taken when cleaning them. In order to keep your hardwood floors looking beautiful, there are not only things that you should do - there are also things that you should not do. Here are some of the most important things to keep in mind when you are cleaning hardwood floors:

Don’t clean all of your hardwood floors the same way.

Different hardwood floors need to be cleaned in different ways. It is very important to learn how to clean each hardwood surface in your home. When you have it installed, make sure to ask about the proper method to clean it. Make sure you do your research before you start cleaning. Sealed floors, oil-treated floors, and so forth all need to be treated in different ways. If you are moving in to a new house that has hardwood floors, contact the old owners about how to clean it properly or head to your local home and garden supply center and talk to a professional about cleaning your hardwood floors. Remember, it all starts with a little research.

Don’t use tools that you use on other surfaces.

You can use mops, brooms, dustpans, cloths, and more to clean your hardwood floors. However, keep in mind while cleaning your hardwood floor, these tools should only be used for this process. Other surfaces can cause the tools to wear down or become damaged. This in turn can damage your hardwood floor. To be safe, you may want to make sure these tools are only used to clean your hardwood floor. This should include soft-bristle brooms, vacuum attachments, and more.

Don’t use cleaners that aren’t made for hardwood floors.

Some cleaners are advertised as "multipurpose." However, these are not always the best options for your hardwood floors. Some cleaners are too harsh and can actually remove the finish from your hardwood floors. This can be hard to fix once damaged. In addition, some cleaners include "micro scrubbers," which work well on linoleum and tile, but create tiny scratches on wood. The wrong cleaners can also cause your wood look dull and dirty. If you want to use soaps and other cleaning products on your hardwood floors, make sure you are using products made specifically for hardwood floors. Ammonia cleaners and oil soaps can be especially damaging

Do not allow your hardwood floors to air dry.

Wood expands and warps when it gets wet. Although your hardwood floors are probably sealed, they are still susceptible to water damage. You can use water to clean your hardwood floors, but make sure that you do not use more than you need. In addition, as you are cleaning your hardwood floors, make sure to wipe up all excess water. If you leave the water there, you are causing underlying damage and you could cause the wood to weaken and splinter below your feet.

Don’t try to fix major damage yourself.

As you are cleaning your hardwood floors, you might notice some real damage. If this occurs, it is always a good idea to call in the professionals. Although you may want to try to fix this with a do it yourself project, real damage will only get worse if you do not know what you are doing. Make sure that the damaged area is noted so that everyone in your household avoids stepping on the effected area until it is fixed by hardwood flooring professionals.

Do not ignore your hardwood floors.Some people are afraid to clean their hardwood floors. However, this does more damage than good. Although you definitely need to make sure that you are being careful, if you let dirt and grime build up on your hardwood floors, you will find that the tiny pieces of rocks, food, and other dirt will cause scratches that you can’t fix without resurfacing. Ignoring your hardwood floors is never a good idea. You should clean them as soon as they are dirty or at least once a month.

Hardwood floors do not have to be a big issue when it comes to cleaning your house. Although they do require a bit of care, the extra time and effort is definitely worth the trouble. If you have hardwood floors in your house, make sure that you learn how to clean them properly. Learning what not to do is the first and best step you can take. As always, conducting a bit of research before you clean is a good start, and the more you learn the easier it will be to maintain the beautiful finish of your hardwood floors.